The following account is by George Bennett, a physician
who visited Rotuma in 1830. It was part of an article entitled, "A
Recent Visit to Several of the Polynesian Islands," and was
published in the United Services Journal 33:198-202, 473-482
(1831).
THE ISLAND OF
RÓTUMA.
This interesting and fertile island was discovered by the
Pandora in the year 1791, and has been since occasionally visited
by English and American whalers, and a few other ships, for the
purpose of procuring water and a supply of vegetable productions,
with which it abound. It is situated in latitude 12° 30' south,
and longitude 177° O' east, and is distant about 26O miles from
the nearest island of the Fidji group. It is of a moderate height,
densely wooded, and abounding in cocoa-nut trees, and is about from
thirty to thirty-five miles in circumference. Its general
appearance is beautifully picturesque, verdant hills gradually
rising from the sandy beach, giving it a highly fertile appearance.
It is surrounded by extensive reefs, on which at low water the
natives may be seen busily engaged in procuring shell and other
fish, which are abundantly produced on them, and constitute one of
their articles of daily food. At night, they fish by torch-light,
lighting fires on the beach, by which the fish are attracted to the
reefs. The torches are formed of the dried spathes or fronds of the
cocoa-nut tree, and enable them to see the fish, which they take
with hand-nets. It is by these lights that the fish are attracted,
but not so in the opinion of the natives, who say, "they come to
the reef at night to eat, then sleep, and leave again in the
morning." The numerous lights flickering about have a beautiful
effect during a dark night, and might resemble the illuminated
halls of Pandemonium. On these reefs, an infinite variety of fish
is procured, but generally of small size; a display of colours of
the most vivid description, as well as extraordinary forms, also
occur amongst them. We made this island on the 21st of February
1830; it bore west by south-half-south, about twenty-five miles
distant; at 11 A.M. when close in, standing for the anchorage, we
were boarded by several natives, who came off in their canoes, and
surprised us by their acquaintance with the English language; this
it seems they had acquired from their occasional intercourse with
shipping, but principally from the European seamen, who had
deserted from their ships and were residing on the island in savage
luxury and indolence. One of the natives acting as pilot, we
rounded the islets named Owa by the natives, and anchored in Onhaf
Bay, (which is situated on the north-east side of the island,) in
fifteen fathoms, sand and coral bottom, about two miles distant
from the shore. When at anchor, the extremes of the land bore from
east by north to west by compass. An island rather high, quoin
shaped, and inhabited, situated at a short distance from the main
land, (between which there is a passage for a large ship,) was at
some distance from our present anchorage, and bore west-half-north
by compass; it was named Ouer by the natives. Close to us were two
rather high islands, or islets, of small extent, planted with
coco-nut trees, and almost connected together by rocks, and to the
main land by a reef; they shelter the bay from easterly winds.
Their bearings are as follow:--the first centre bore east half
north; the second centre bore east-half-south, extreme of the main
land east-south-east by compass. One of the chiefs, on our
anchoring, addressing the Commander made the following very
humane observation, "If Rótuma man steal, to make
hang up immediately." Had this request been complied with, there
would have been a great depopulation during our stay, and it is not
improbable that a few chiefs might have felt its effects.
On a second visit to this island in March 1830, we anchored in a
fine picturesque bay, situated on the west side of the island,
named Thor, in fourteen fathoms, sand and coral bottom, about three
miles distant from the centre; but I should strongly recommend
ships not to anchor here during the months of February, March,
April, and the early part of May, the prevailing winds blowing
strong from west and north west, which we had the misfortune to
experience, being driven on shore during a gale on the 30th of
March, an account of which will be given in the course of the
narrative. Ships should prefer lying off and on at the lee side of
the island, where they will be able readily to procure their
supplies. A reef extends out some distance from the beach at this
bay, almost dry at low water, and with much surf at the entrance,
from which cause the procuring of wood and water is attended with
more difficulty than at Onhaf Bay. There is another place on the
south side of the island named Fangwot, the residence of the king,
or principal chief. It affords anchorage for shipping, but from its
exposed situation, a ship should prefer lying off and on to
anchoring; this is the best part of the island for procuring a
large supply of provisions. About five or six miles distant from
the main land to the south west, are several small uninhabited
islands, or islets, which are occasionally visited by the natives
from the main for the purpose ofprocuring from and in their
vicinity, shell and other fish. These islets bear the native
appellations of Ofliwa, Athana, Hothahoi; and a rock or rocks above
water, on which the sea breaks, named Hoth-fakteringa. The first
has a remarkable appearance, resembling a rock divided in two
portion, excepting at one part, where they are joined by a portion
of rock forming a natural bridge. The following diagram gives the
appearance of the island, bearing west-south-west, about five miles
distant; it has a verdant appearance, with several coco-nut trees
growing on the summit.
The others have nothing remarkable in their appearance.
On landing, the beautiful appearance of the island was rather
increased than diminished; vegetation appeared most luxuriant, and
the trees and shrubs blooming with various tints, spread a gaiety
around; the clean and neat native houses were intermingled with the
waving plumes of the coco-nut, the broad spreading plantain, and
other trees peculiar to tropical climes. That magnificent tree the
callophyllum inophyllum, or fifau of
the natives, was not less abundant, displaying its shining dark
green foliage, contrasted by beautiful clusters of white flowers
teeming with fragrance. This tree seemed a favourite with the
natives, on account of its shade, fragrance and ornamental
appearance of the flowers. When one was cut down by the carpenter
of a ship, a young tree was brought and planted close to the place
where the old one formerly displayed its wide spreading branches,
thus showing a desire of securing for posterity a similar shade and
fragrance to that afforded by the one which had fallen; an example
well worthy of imitation in every country. When I extended my
rambles more inland, through narrow and sometimes rugged pathways,
the luxuriance of vegetation did not decrease, but the lofty trees,
overshadowing the road, defended the pedestrian from the effects of
a fervent sun, rendering the walk under their umbrageous covering
cool and pleasant. The gay flowers of the hibiscus tiliaceus, as
well as the splendid huth or Barringtonia speciosa, covered with
its beautiful flowers, the petals of which are white, and the edges
of the stamina delicately tinged with pink, give to the trees when
in full bloom a magnificent appearance; the hibiscus rosa
chinensis, or kowa of the natives also
grows in luxuriance and beauty. The elegant flowers of these trees,
with others of more humble and less beautiful tints, everywhere
meet the eye near the paths, occasionally varied by plantations of
the ahan or taro, arum esculentum,
which, from a deficiency of irrigation, is generally of the
mountain variety. Of the sugar-cane they possess several varieties,
and it is eaten in the raw state; a small variety of yam, more
commonly known by the name of the Rótuma potato, the
ulé of the natives is very
abundant; the ulu or bread-fruit,
pori or plantain, and the
vi, (spondias dulcis,
Parkinson,) or Brazilian plum, with numerous other kinds,
sufficiently testify the fertility of the island.
Occassionally the mournful toa
or casuarina equisetifolia, planted in small clumps near the
villages or surrounding the burial places, added beauty to
the landscape. A few days after my arrival I by chance
visited a spot which formed a combination of the picturesque
and beautiful. I had passed through a village named Shoulnau,
and having ascended a hill overshadowed as usual by
magnificent trees, I descended towards the beach, when a
beautiful view appeared before me; it was a tranquil piece of
water formed by the sea, on one side inclosed by a high
island covered with coco-nut and other trees, and nearly
joining the main land, leaving on each side small passages
for canoes, one opening rather more extended than the other;
the opposite banks were covered with native houses,
intermingled with trees and various kinds of flowering
shrubs: the placidity of the water, the tranquillity that
reigned around, interrupted only occasionally by the chirping
of birds, produced an effect approaching enchantment. After
remaining for some time viewing with mingled admiration and
delight this interesting spot, I left it with regret; it is
situated on the south-east part of the island, and named
Shaulcopé by the natives. I subsequently visited this
tranquil piece of water in a native canoe; as we passed
through the openings before mentioned, the natives commenced
singing a monotonous but pleasing song, (consisting of a
sentence frequently repeated,) keeping accurate time with the
strokes of their paddles; the effect as the voices
reverberated around, could be felt, but cannot be
described.
The native houses are very neat; they are formed of poles and
logs, the roof being covered with the leaves of a species of sagus
palm, named hoat by the natives, and
highly valued by them for that purpose on account of their
durability; the sides are covered with the plaited sections of the
coco-nut branches, which form excellent corerings. They hare
commonly two entrances, one before, the other behind; these
entrances are very low and have a door hung horizontally, which is
raised and kept open by a prop during the day, but closed at night.
The houses are kept very clean, the floors being covered either
with the plaited branches of the coco-nut tree, or the common kind
of mat, named ehap, most commonly the
former. Near their houses they have generally some favourite trees
planted; the tobacco plant also, recently introduced, flourishes
luxuriantly, but as yet they have not learned the art of preparing
it. The landing is easy, on a sandy beach. Fire wood can readily be
procured at a short distance from the beach; the water is of
excellent quality, but from there being no running streams,
(excepting a few of very trivial importance situated inland,) the
supply is procured from wells.
The natives are a fine-looking and well-formed people,
resembling much those of Tongatabu in their appearance; they are of
good dispositions, but are much addicted to thieving, which seems
indeed to be a national propensity; they are of a light copper
colour, and the men wear the hair long and stained at the
extremities of a reddish brown colour; sometimes they tie the hair
in a knot behind, but the most prevailing custom is to permit it to
hang over the shoulders. The females may be termed handsome, of
fine forms, and although possessing a modest demeanour, flocked on
board in numbers on the ship's arrival; their garrulity when there
sufficiently prove that even in this remote part of the globe,
there was no deficiency of volubility of the lingual organ, amongst
the fair portion of the creation. The women before marriage
have the hair cut close and covered with the shoroi, which is burnt coral mixed with the gum of
the bread-fruit tree; this is removed after marriage and their hair
is permitted to grow long, but on the death of a chief or their
parents it is cut close as a badge of mourning. Both sexes paint
themselves with a mixture of the root of the turmeric plant
(curcuma longa) and coco-nut oil, which frequently changed our
clothes and persons of an icteroid hue, from our curiosity to
mingle with them in the villages--theirs, to come on board the
ship. This paint, which is named Rang
by the natives, and which is also the appellation of the turmeric
plant, is prepared in the following manner:--The root of the
turmeric, after having been well washed, is rasped into a bowl to
which water is afterwards added, it is then strained and the
remaining liquor is left some time for the fecula to subside; the
water is then poured off, and the remaining fecula is dried and
kept in sections of the coco-nut shell or in balls; when required
for use it is mixed with coco-nut oil, and when recently laid on
has a bright red appearance, which I mistook at first for
red-ochre.
ON visiting the king, who resided at the village of Fangwot, we
found him a well formed and handsome man, apparently about thirty
years of age; the upper part of his body was thickly covered with
the Rang, or paint of turmeric and
oil, which had been recently laid on in honour of the visit from
the strangers. There was somewhat of novelty, but little of "regal
magnificence" in our reception. In the open air, under the wide
spreading branches of their favourite Fifau, (Callophyllum Inophyllum,) sat his Majesty
squatted on the ground, and surrounded by a crowd of his subjects.
The introduction was equally unostentatious; one of the natives who
had accompanied us from the ship, pointing towards him, said, in
tolerably pronounced English, "That the king." His Majesty not
being himself acquainted with our language, one of his attendants,
who spoke it with considerable fluency acted as interpreter. After
some common-place questions, such as where the ship came from,
where bound to, what provisions we stood in need of, &c., we
adjourned to the royal habitation, which differed in no respect
from the other native houses. Yams, bread-fruit, and fish, wrapped
in the plantain leaves in which they had been cooked, were here
placed before us, with coco-nut water for our beverage; plantain
leaves serving also as plates. But before we had time to do full
justice to the regal repast, such a concourse of natives had
surrounded and entered the dwelling, and occasioned such
inconvenience from the heat, that we were glad to make good our
retreat, and put an end to the interview.
The chiefs are elected kings in rotation,
and the royal office is held for six months, but by the consent of
the other chiefs, it may be retained by the same chief for two or
three years. The royal title is Sho:
the king to whom we had been introduced, as a chief, is named Mora.
We had an interview also with the former king, named Riemko; he is
a chief of high rank, and a very intelligent man: he spoke the
English language with much correctness. Being naturally of an
inquisitive disposition, and possessing an exceedingly retentive
memory, he had acquired much information; this he displayed by
detailing to us many facts connected with the histories of Napoleon
Buonaparte, Wellington, &c., which had been related to him by
various European visitors, and which he appeared to retain to the
most minute particulars. He surprised us not a little by inquiring
if we resided in "Russell-square, London ?"
A stranger, on visiting this small island, scarcely known to
Europeans, is quite astonished at hearing the English language
spoken by so many of the natives, and to perceive them all so
anxious to acquire a knowledge of it. I was frequently amused by
hearing these naked savages attempt a conversation among themselves
in my own language. A blind lad, who came on board, "not to see the
ship but to feel her," as he expressed himself, spoke English
fluently. In conversation he asked me, "What the name of your
ship's owner ?" "Got many ships?" Then as a display of the
knowledge he had acquired, either from the European seamen resident
on the island or during his occasional visits to the shipping he
said, "You steer by a compass, and take the sun with a
quadrant--and have charts--and that is the way you go to different
places." He also repeated to me the days of the week, and months of
the year with great accuracy. He had been blind from a child, but
from what cause I could not ascertain.
There is a pleasing and innocent custom among the females of
this, as well as of the other Polynesian islands I visited, of
decorating themselves with flowers by placing them either singly in
the hair, and behind and in the lobes of the ears, or by forming
them into elegant necklaces and head wreaths; and in their
arrangement they display admirable ingenuity and taste. Their
favourites are the Fifau,
Kowa, (Hibiscus rosa chinensis,)
Pandanus odoratissimus, the Mouscoi, (Uvaria sp.)[fn. The
fragrance of the flowers of this shrub surpasses all the
others; even when dried the odour is preserved for years, and
some now in my possession have not in the slightest degree
lost their fragrance, although they have been preserved
upwards of twelve months in a dried state. The natives use
them also for scenting their coco-nut oil. The shrub is found
in hilly situations.] and the Gardenia; but they use
numerous other species, selected either for their beauty or
fragrance. I never observed among them the Eastern custom of
communicating their feelings or affections through the medium
of a bouquet.
The dress of both males and females consists simply of an
Apé or mat, worn round the
waist, descending to the ancles, the upper part of the body being
left exposed. The fishing, or common dresses of the latter, are
made from strips of the plantain-leaf, or those of the
Rang or turmeric plant, which
are dried and bleached in the sun, and when worn in a bundle
round the waist, descend a short distance below the knee.
Their marriage ceremony is performed by the parties standing
in the water by the sea-side up to the waist with mats around
them, they are there smeared over with the rang or paint of turmeric and oil;
[fn. This smearing of paint seems to be considered
essential in all their forms and ceremonies; it is practised
on the meeting and at the parting of friends, as well as in
the marriage ceremony.] they then come out of the
water, are arrayed in new mats, a feast is given, and thus
the ceremony concludes. Polygamy is permitted here, as in
most of the other Polynesian islands. Previous to marriage,
there is no restriction placed on the female; her character
does not suffer by a deviation from chastity, nor does it
militate against her being subsequently married; but after
having entered into this state, they are considered
faithful--most probably from the effects of fear.
In the cleared spaces usually left in the centre of their
villages, and which are swept every morning and evening, are either
a clump of Toa-trees, (Casuarina
equisetifolia,) (the wood of which is highly valued by them, and
from its hardness and durability is named by Europeans iron-wood,)
or their favourite fifau. Here the
natives, resorting to enjoy "the gay and festive hour" in the cool
of the evening, display their graceful movements in the slow dance,
or cause the air to reverberate with their yells when the dance is
that of war. The natives are cleanly both in their persons and
habits; the custom of rubbing their bodies with scented coco-nut
oil, as well as the aromatic smell of the turmeric, gives to them
an agreeable odour. They are particularly cleanly in their meals,
and expressed great disgust at the dirty habits of the Sandwich
islanders, who touched there in the unfortunate brig Temeamea,
under the command of Governor Boki. [fn. The Temeamea,
Sandwich Island brig of war, with Boki and between two or three
hundred natives of the Sandwich Islands, sailed from Oahu for
Erromanga on the 5th of December 1829: they touched at the island
of Rótuma but had not of afterwards been heard of. From
portions of wreck having been picked up about the New Hebrides
Group, it is suspected that she was either wrecked, or blown up by
gunpowder, a quantity of which was placed between decks without any
precaution.] As articles of trade, they are partial to beads
of large size and showy colours; also axes, chisels, whales' teeth,
fish hooks, small looking glasses, &c. The females are
remarkably fond of beads, in the arrangement of which they display
as much taste as in their necklaces of flowers. I was requested one
morning to visit a chief of high rank, for the purpose of rendering
him my professional assistance, as he had been long suffering from
illness. I readily acceded to the request, and after a sultry walk
arrived at his residence at a village named Shoar. This chief, who
was named Moeta, had long been suffering from rheumatic affections
of the joints; he pointed out to me the scars where the native
remedy of burning had been resorted to, but no benefit had resulted
from it. I prescribed for him, and he inquired of me what diet he
should use, &c. He afterwards presented me with a fine mat of
the island, and on my refusing the proffered gift, he seemed
displeased, and said, "that it was the custom of the country;" I
consequently took it: this was the only instance during my visit to
any of the Polynesian Islands, that a gift was ever tendered to me
for professional services. Dysentery is one of the most prevailing
diseases among them, from which numbers annual perish, and from the
benefit they have derived from European medicines, I had numerous
applicants. That a medical practitioner would be highly esteemed by
them, was exemplified by the high offers made and inducements
held out to me by a chief named Ufangnot, of the district of
Saflé who thus expressed himself in tolerably good English,
"You stay at Rótuma, make people well, as too many people
die, and you have made some well, and know how to cure all people,
you will have plenty wife, plenty yam and pig, plenty land, and be
all the same as one king." Far superior in style was a wish
expressed for my remaining at Eimeo, one of the Society Islands for
a similar reason, by a chief named Mare, when I visited it in
October 1829, of which the following is a literal translation from
the beautifully figurative language employed by the Polynesian
natives. "You, Curer of Diseases, stay on this land, that it may
not be consumed by death, but that it may go with an upright head."
On my asking him, what advantage I should derive from complying ?
He replied, "You shall have what the land produces; we can give you
no more, nor that which we have not." Nature, among these people,
is the chief physician. Burning and cutting are the remedies
principally used for all their diseases. Ophthalmia is prevalent
among those who reside in the vicinity of the beach; which may
readily be attributed to the reflection from the sand. I observed
also the purulent ophthalmia common among the infants; but no
inducement (from what reason I could never ascertain) could make
the native women wash their children s eyes. The lotions which I
frequently gave them for this purpose were seldom or never used,
but all internal remedies they took readily and with
confidence.
On a hill not far distant inland from the village of Shoar, I
visited the burial-place of the kings, named by the natives
Shishoul; the path leading to it was delightfully shaded by a
variety of trees; this burial-place of the regal personages
possessed nothing remarkable, either for beauty of scenery or of
construction. It was simply a slightly elevated mound inclosed with
stones; over the graves were placed large coral stones, marking the
situations of each; some parts of the mound were planted with the
variety of Chi, (Dracaena terminelis,) named Chinilal by the natives, the leaves of which are
highly ornamental, being of a beautiful dark crimson colour, and
which it is considered the prerogative of the kings only to wear as
a girdle around the waist. At a short distance, it was densely
surrounded by bread-fruit and other trees. The ordinary places of
burial are attached to the villages, and have no unapt resemblance
to European churchyards; they are mounds, built round with stones,
and the graves are covered by large coral stones, some laid flat
over the graves, and others elevated similar to our tomb stones.
[fn. A Rótuma chief, who accompanied us to the Island
of Erromanga brought from that island, on our returning thither, a
stone which ha seemed very solicitous of preserving: on questioning
him for what purpose he designed it, he replied, that it was to
place over the grave of his child, who had died the day previous to
his departure from Rótuma, adding that Rótuma people
like to place stones brought from another land over the graves of
their family or friends. For what reason he could not tell, farther
then that it was their custom.] The dead are simply wrapped
in a mat when buried. The beautiful drooping Toa, (Casuarina equisetifolia,) as corresponding
with the situation, and other shrubs, are usually planted over and
around these mounds. I observed also high mounds of stones, which
must have required great labour in their erection; on each a hut
was built, and on inquiry I was informed that these were the burial
places of particular chiefs.
Four kinds of mats are manufactured on the island. The first is
named Ehap, and is the common sleeping
mat; it is made from the older leaves of the Sahang, a species of Pandanus. The second is named
Apé Sala. This is also
manufactured from the leaves of the sahang, which are first bleached, by sprinkling
with water and exposing them in the sun, renewing the sprinkling
until they become white. This mat is of a fine quality. The third
is the Apé Niau; this is again
finer than the preceding, and is manufactured from the bark of the
Hibiscus Tiliaceus, or Vinghou of the
natives. The fourth is the Amea, and
is the most valued; it is a fine strong mat, but is not
manufactured of as large size as the other varieties. It is made
from the bark of a species of Urtica [fn. The flax from the
bark of this tree is also used for making their fishing lines and
nets.], called by the natives Amea, from which the mat also takes its name.
Apé is the general term for a
mat or anything that serves for similar purpoes. The war mats are
of the same texture as the Apé
Sala, but of a smaller size; four of those are worn
together, fastened round the waist, when going to meet their
enemies; they are placed each over the other, and so arranged as to
display two deep vandykes decorated with red feathers on the edge
of each, except the upper one, which has two oblong strips
ornamented in a similar manner. It is usual to employ their women
in the manufacture of the mats, a process so tedious as to occupy
six months or more in the completion of one. They also manufactured
cloth of various degrees of fineness, from the bark of the
Ulu or bread-fruit tree and the
Chal or paper mulberry tree. This
cloth they call Wor; it is stained of
various colours procured from native plants. The bark is beaten by
a wooden instrument named Ia, of a
similar form to that employed in others of the Polynesian Islands.
The method of manufacture is also the same, and has been so often
and correctly described, that an account of it is here
unnecessary.
Considerable similarity, as regards features and general habits,
exists between the natives of Rótuma and those of Tongatabu,
yet they differ widely from each other in strength and bulk of
stature, the former being much less muscular than the latter, and
less capable of enduring hardship or fatigue. Presuming that these
people came originally from some of the Friendly Island group, it
would appear that the natives of Rótuma have degenerated
from their aboriginal stock. This opinion of their descent is
strengthened by the fact, that about a year previous to our visit,
a canoe had arrived there from Tongatabu; it contained many natives
from thence, none of whom, however, remained among them. It has
been long customary for a large canoe containing a hundred or more
persons of both sexes, to leave the Island of Tongatabu for the
purpose of visiting the Fidji Islands, and it is not improbable
that being driven by tempestuous weather out of the sight of land,
they may have reached some island before unknown to them. An innate
love of roaming seems to exist among these people; they set sail
without any fixed purpose in one of their large canoes: few ever
return, some probably perish, others drift on islands either
uninhabited, or if inhabited, they mingle with the natives, and
tend to produce those varieties of the human race which are so
observable in the Polynesian Archipelago. I frequently asked those
of Rótuma what object they had in leaving their fertile
island to risk the perils of the deep ? the reply invariably was,
"Rótuma man want to see new land:" they thus run before the
wind until they fall in with some island, or perish in a storm.
Cook and others relate numerous instances of this kind.
The following circumstance, which came under my observation,
still farther illustrates this opinion. In April 1830 on landing at
the Island of Tucopia, which is situated in latitude
12o 13' South, longitude
169o 0' East, I observed
among the people two natives of Rótuma; their presence
did not at first occasion me much surprise, conceiving it
probable that they had been left there by whalers. On
inquiry, however, I found they came down before the trade
wind from that island, and were unable to return; they said
there were others of their countrymen there also, where they
had resided ten years, and had been kindly treated by the
inhabitants; they, however, appeared anxious to return to
their "home;" they were both middle-aged men. A short time
previous to our arrival at the Island of Rótuma, a
canoe with strangers had arrived, but from what island could
not be ascertained. I saw one of them, a fine-looking man, of
the Asiatic cast of countenance; he seemed very sullen and
adverse to answering questions, that is, if he understood
them, which very probably he did not. It is on facts, and
numerous facts alone, we can depend to elucidate this highly
interesting subject; hypotheses may be infinitely multiplied,
and each may appear equally plausible, but facts collected
from authentic sources can alone set at rest a question which
has excited such general attention in the minds of those
interested in the study of the varieties of the human
race.
Of religion, they seem, as far as I
could ascertain, to possess very indistinct ideas; they believe
that the spirits of deceased persons visit them after death, to
appease whom they often make offerings, and hang up in their houses
bunches of a shrub named Tenten, and
wear it about their persons, for the purpose of keeping away evil
spirits, for which it is considered to possess the virtue. They
appear to have no idea of a future state. "The white people," they
observe, "tell us that there is a heaven for good and a hell for
bad men, but Rótuma man not know." On asking one of them
whether this man, pointing to a dying Rótuma native, was
afraid to die? "No," was the answer, "why should he?" "Then where
does he expect to go after death?" "Why, Sir, if man die on shore,
go in the ground; if man die on board ship, go into the sea," was
the reply. A shout similar to the war-cry was raised when the body
of one who had died on board was consigned to the deep; the chief
to whose tribe he belonged, informed us this was intended as a
compliment, "because he was a quick man, go up tree, catch plenty
coco-nuts, catch plenty grub." The reason assigned by the natives
of Rótuma why many of their countrymen die at Erromanga (one
of the New Hebrides) was, "That they killed the Erromanga people,
and that their spirits haunted them to death." They have houses
where the offerings are made, but have no idols, and on the death
or illness of a chief, a joint of the little finger is taken off as
an offering; they also cut themselves with hatchets on the death of
a chief. I observed at this island, as at Tongatabu, the women with
circular scars over their bodies, which had been caused by the
application of fire: some had them only on the chest, others
covering nearly the whole of the body. This was effected by rolling
up a piece of Wor, or native cloth, in
a circular form, setting it on fire, and then striking it on the
skin; this is practiced on the death of a chief, or of parents. If
the loss be a mother, the chest and breast are the parts burned; if
a father, the back only. It was among the females alone that I
observed this custom to prevail, who may frequently be seen almost
entirely covered with recent burns on which the vesicles remained,
without uttering any expression of pain; such is the force of
custom. I met with a middle-aged female who was covered with recent
burns, still in a blistered state; she informed me that it was for
the death of the chief Konau: these burns were on the back, but the
poor creature must have seen much trouble in her lifetime, as she
had the marks of former ones still visible covering her back, arms,
breasts, &c and many of the recent ones over places where
others had been before. It is said not only here, but at other of
the Polynesian Islands, that burning or cutting themselves has the
effect of assuaging or dissipating grief, as the pain produced by
the burns or cuts causes them to forget their mental to attend to
their bodily suffering. On entering a house, the hospitable
inhabitants always place some refreshment of coco-nuts, yams,
&c. before strangers. I once was induced to enter one to
ascertain the cause of accents of distress which I heard issuing,
and I found a poor old woman sitting solitary on the ground crying
most piteously, tears abundantly flowing down her cheeks: it was
for the death of her son, her only child, who, anxious "to see new
land," had visited the Island of Erromanga in a vessel, and was one
among a number of others who had fallen victims there of fever.
Even in the midst of her grief, the poor old creature did not
forget the rites of hospitality; she placed bread-fruit, bananas,
&c. before me, of which, however, I did not partake, but gave
her some beads before I departed, as some consolation in the midst
of her troubles. The natives of this island use the
Kava or Ava as a beverage, similar to other islands
in this sea, and cultivate it for the purpose, but I did not
observe that it was used to any excess. The Kava bowls are neatly manufactured from the
wood of the fifau
tree.
The dances at this island are peculiarly interesting, and take
place by torch-light; they resemble those I had previously seen at
Tongatabu; by the men they were performed with much action in both
slow and quick movements, with the usual accompaniments of clapping
of hands, keeping accurate time with a monotonous but pleasing song
from the party who composed the orchestra. The spectators applauded
and encouraged the dancers by frequent shouts of
"Mariai, Mariai!" (well done.) The females executed
their part with considerable grace, in a slow and regular
movement, which, added to the tasteful manner in which they
had decorated themselves with flowers for the occasion,
produced a pleasing effect. One dance by the whole "corps
de ballet" was peculiar; the women formed the first row,
and the men two other rows; much grace was displayed by the
females in the sinking of the body, forming the graceful
curtesy of the European ladies; the song which accompanied
this dance was agreeable, though plaintive; the slow movement
was concluded by one of very quick and rapid action by the
male dancers, the women merely singing, clapping the hands,
and making a slight movement of the feet in perfect time with
the dance. All the dances we witnessed here were totally
devoid of the disgusting and indecent actions exhibited in
the dances at Tahiti, New Zealand, and others of the
Polynesian Islands. We were entertained one day by the
war-dance and a mock combat; as the latter was intended to
demonstrate to us their mode of conducting warfare, I shall
give a short sketch of the engagement. The party consisted of
upwards of one hundred men, armed with hoibéluongs (clubs), spears, and
baskets of stones; the highest chief present, who in this
instance was the king's brother, headed the party. The
preparation for action commenced by deafening shouts and
shrieks, and furious stamping, which was done to intimidate
their adversaries; this was followed by a propitiatory song
to the spirits for victory. A few warriors advance from the
main body and engage in single combat, with spears and clubs,
with the warriors of the adverse party; if they conquer, the
whole adverse body fly. The stone throwers are then
dispatched to annoy the retreating party by their missiles,
which, by the accuracy of aim, acquired by constant practice,
they do with great effect. The death of some of the warriors
generally decides the victory. The entire of the successful
party pursue the beaten one, and usually kill great numbers
with their clubs. In this mock combat several fell as if
dead, and if a chief, he was stripped of his fillet of shells
[fn. All the chiefs were distinguished by fillets of
white shells (ovula ovum) around the head, in the centre of
which was the famed and beautiful Cyprea aurora, or Orange
cowry. The same kind are also worn by the chiefs both of the
Fidji and Friendly Islands.] and club, which were
taken as trophies by the victors. At the conclusion of the
combat, the whole of the dead bodies of the enemy are dragged
and presented, together with the trophies, to the highest
chief of the victorious party and then counted to ascertain
the number of slain. It was a formidable sight to witness so
many clubs brandished in the air, accompanied by deafening
war shouts and yells. They use the club with great skill, and
it a formidable weapon when wielded by persons accustomed to
its use. The clubs as well as the spears, the latter being
from fifteen to twenty feet in length, are formed from the
wood of the Toa-tree (Casuarina
equisetifolia). Even in this petty island, the desire of the
human race to destroy their own species is manifested; their
fury being also excited to a great degree by their emulating
songs.
As an evidence of the great desire of the natives of both sexes
to leave their native land, I may mention the offers which were
made to the commander of the ship, of baskets of potatoes and hogs,
as an inducement to be carried to the island of Erromanga, where
our vessel was next bound to. Two hundred were taken on board for
the purpose of cutting Sandal wood, but from the unhealthy state in
which we found the island on our arrival, and the numerous deaths
that had occurred among native gangs that had been brought by other
vessels for a similar purpose, we returned to Rótuma and
landed them all safely. The perfect apathy with which they leave
parents and connexions, departing with strangers to a place
respecting which they are in total ignorance, is quite surprising,
placing an unbounded confidence in those differing in colour,
language, and customs from themselves: the young timid female, to
whom a ship was a novelty, those who had never before seen a ship,
were all anxious to visit foreign climes,--even, they said,
London.
On the 25th of March the jolly boat, in returning to the ship
(Sophia) with a load of firewood, the wind blowing fresh at the
time, was upset in the surf; the Midshipman in charge of her (Mr.
F. Lamb) and one seaman perished: boats were sent as soon as the
accident was seen from the ship, which succeeded in saving the
remainder of the crew. This accident proved only the precursor of
one yet more serious. From the 25th the wind blew very strong from
west-north-west, and north-north -west, with a heavy sea running
into the bay, and prevented our departure. On the 27th, the gales
increasing in violence, the other anchors were let go, the
top-gallant and top-masts were struck, and the main and fore yards
lowered on the deck. From the violent pitching of the shop we
dreaded the cables parting, while the heavy foaming breakers astern
rendered our situation most perilous. The wind from the 27th to the
29th occasionally moderated; but from constantly blowing into the
bay, all attempts at getting under way were unavailing. On the 30th
March a heavy swell rolled into the bay; the weather, however, was
now fine and clear, the gale had moderated, and we were anxiously
looking for a favourable moment to put to sea. About eleven A.M.
the sky became again overcast, with every appearance of a heavy
squall coming on from the old quarter, the north-west. It soon
commenced blowing furiously, accompanied by heavy rain; this squall
was followed by a strong gale, the violence of which, with the
heavy sea rolling into the bay, soon caused our hempen cables to
part, and we perceived that we were gradually dragging our
chain-cable and anchor, and drifting towards the shore. As the ship
approached the breakers, she rolled and pitched tremendously; all
hands were assembled on the poop, across which life ropes were
thrown, and all remained in anxious expectation of the first shock.
A number of the crew were desirous that the anchor should be cut
away, and the ship drive broadside on, as a greater chance of
saving our lives; fortunately the commander and officers concurred
in letting the ship drag her anchor, as it kept her head to wind.
When we first perceived that we were driving on shore, guns were
fired to induce canoes to be in readiness to afford us assistance;
the sea however was too high to render it practicable: crowds of
natives were seen assembled on the beach. A rock was now seen close
to our stern; we had driven far into the bay, and the striking was
momentarily expected, but by putting the helm up, and with the
assistance of the driver, we passed it without injury and drove
farther in. About one P.M. she struck, but not so violently as was
expected: the rudder was soon lost; she pitched heavily, but again
floated, striking at intervals; she ground down the soft coral
rocks and went farther in, until she appeared to us to have been
brought up by her anchor, which probably held some rock. The outer
rocks which we had passed now afforded a breakwater, and the sea
broke furiously over them, which otherwise would have deluged the
ship. The reef inside the surf was of some extent, and was nearly
dry at low water; but the tremendous surf that raged, and offset
consequent on it, rendered all attempts to land unavailable. The
gale still continuing with great violence, with no appearance of an
abatement, about four P.M. Mr. Jones, the second officer, and four
seamen volunteered to venture in a boat astern of the ship, (which
still rode head to wind, being kept by her anchor in that
position,) and endeavour to land and convey a hawser from the ship
to the reef; the boat fortunately reached the reef in safety after
a hazardous passage. A kedge-anchor which was taken in the boat,
was fastened to the reef, but the hawser attached to it in
communication with the ship getting entangled among the coral rocks
was rendered useless. From the success of the jolly boat, a whale
boat was lowered, and sent in a similar manner to the reef; it made
two passages in safety, taking some sick New Zealanders that were
on board. The surf increased still higher with the rising tide, and
the jolly-boat returning from the reef was swamped and soon dashed
to pieces against the rocks; the two man in her were saved with
difficulty by ropes from the ship. After this accident, and as the
surf was tremendous, it was not thought advisable to venture any
more of the boats this evening. As the tide rose, the ship floated
as if in a basin; the gale rather increased than diminished with
the approaching darkness, and no very agreeable night was
anticipated. The ship rode comparatively easy from six to eleven
P.M., but after that period, and about midnight, as the tide ebbed,
she struck violently, swinging about and receiving such severe
shocks as to shake the whole fabric. The carpenter was almost
constantly sounding, and reported the agreeable intelligence that
she made no water. After a sleepless night, at dawn of day on the
31st the weather had moderated, so as to enable us to employ the
boats in removing stores, baggage, &c. from the ship to the
shore. The weather continued squally and unsettled during the day,
and the gale again increasing towards night, the crew were all
safely landed. Only one accident occurred, which, fortunately, did
not prove of any serious consequence--one of the boats under charge
of Mr. Hays, the third officer, was upset in the surf; the stores,
&c. in her were lost, but the crew were saved by another of the
boats. We formed a tent at a part of the bay named Haho, where we
landed the baggage, &c. The natives were very friendly,
assisting us in erecting the tent, bringing provisions, &c. The
weather continued very tempestuous until the 2nd of April, when
moderating, the ship was got off and again anchored in the bay,
without having made any water of consequence. By the aid of native
divers we procured the lower part of our rudder, it was united to
the upper portion which remained attached to the ship, and being
shipped, we were enabled to leave this unfortunate bay on the 8th
of April. There were several whalers who had just arrived at the
lee-side of the island, and some of the natives reported our
situation to them in the following exaggerated manner-- "That the
ship had broke into ten thousand pieces; "this having been repeated
to another native, he said it was not so bad as that, but "a large
hole had been knocked in her stern, which the carpenter was
endeavouring to stop to keep the water out." We succeeded in re
moving our stores, &c. from the shore to the ship, without any
material loss from the natives.
Much wonder was excited, when I exhibited to the natives of this
island coloured engravings of flowers, birds, butterflies, &c.;
they imagined them to be the original plant or butterfly attached
to the paper--no mean compliment to the artist. The engravings in
Charles Bell's Anatomy of Expression always excited much interest
when shown to the Polynesians; the plate representing Laughter
never failed of excit ing sympathy. A caricature representation of
one of the fashionable belles of 1828 puzzled them exceedingly;
some thought it "a bird," others that it was a nondescript of some
kind, but when they were told that it was a Haina London, or English lady, they laughed, and
said Parora, "you are in joke," so
incredible did it seem to their unsophisticated minds.
One species of snake is found on the island, which is innocuous;
it is named Alet by the natives, is of
a brown colour, and about two feet commonly in length. A specimen
which I brought to England, preserved in spirits, is deposited in
the Museum of the Royal College of Surgeons in London.
The natives also manufacture from the leaves of the Pandanus,
small pockets, named Hatfara, some of
which are very neatly ornamented; in them they keep their trifles,
&c.
In concluding the account of this beautiful island, we may
observe with Malte Brun, that--"A new Cythera emerges from the
bosom of the enchanted wave. An amphitheatre of verdure rises to
our view; tufted groves mingle their foliage with the brilliant
enamel of the meadows; an eternal spring, combining with an eternal
autumn, displays the opening blossom along with the ripened
fruits."
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