Life in the land of milk and honey -- a mother's experience

During the beginning of the first term school holidays (end of April - mid May) I returned again to Lebanon with our sons (Emmanuel and Andrew ) to visit Jioje who had been on his own for most of the time since he assumed command of UNIFIL last year. Emmanuel and Andrew had since returned to school but it was so good to be able to at least spend some time together as a family since their father had been spending so much time away from home. I will be returning home towards the end of the year in order that I can spend some time with the boys before they sit for their final examinations. Although I miss our sons and the rest of the family and kainaga (not to mention the tahroro and ikou), I am slowly adjusting to the daily routine and lifestyle of a peacekeeper's wife in what I consider to be a very dangerous part of the world indeed.

I am being reminded on a daily basis about the volatility of the overall security situation by the occasional rumbling (like thunder) of the artillery and mortar fire as the Israelis and their allies exchange fire with the various Islamic resistance (IR) groups across the demarcation line. Sonic booms and high pitched and shrieking jet engine noises made by low-flying Israeli fighter bombers enroute towards Beirut and the Bekaa Valley (between Lebanon and Syria) on bombing missions has been equally frightening. Jioje calls these flights the 'Beirut Express', a typical soldier with his warped Malhaha sense of humour. In the mornings we are often awakened by a combination of the sound of gunfire (Israeli patrol boats exchanging fire with IR coastal positions) and the deafening wailing of Islamic imams summoning the faithful to morning prayers through loudspeakers from mosques in the neighbouring villages. Indeed I miss and certainly prefer a wake-up call by the crowing of roosters as we are accustomed to in Rotuma.

We live in a so called seaside 'prefabricated villa' within the UNIFIL headquarters complex. It is surrounded by a 12 foot security wall. One of the first things which I was shown on arrival was a bomb shelter which I hope I will not have to go into during my stay....unfortunately I had to spend sometime in it last week when there was a shelter drill. French paratroopers provide a 24 hours security detail and when Jioje is away (which is most of the time) I feel very much like a prisoner because I am not allowed to leave the compound without his bodyguards.

Shopping for our daily household requirements and the many formal luncheons and dinners (including the last luncheon for Fiji's President Ratu Sir KKT Mara and Lady Mara and party which included Col Paul Manueli, the Commander RFMF and High Commissioner in London) was a great challenge. I have been often reminded that I cannot enjoy a daily leisurely shopping trip to the local supermarket because of the prevailing unfavourable operational situation. During the rarest of occasions when the situation permits (only two for the last seven weeks), I was able to travel with armed escorts to the port city of Tyre to buy some much needed groceries, including fresh vegetables and meat. During such forays the escorting soldiers would politely show me how to put on a flak jacket and steel helmet in case we were caught in an exchange of artillery or mortar fire between the warring factions ....not a very comforting thought....and what a marked contrast to the peaceful and serene shopping environment of BPs or MHs in downtown Suva.

Accompanying Jioje to some official functions in Beirut or Tel Aviv could be equally unnerving. To avoid travelling throungh Lebanese, Syrian or IR checkpoints and for security reasons he prefers to fly by helicopter to these engagements. Last week he rushed back from Beirut and picked me up so we could fly down to Jerusalem to attend the 50th anniversary commemoration of the formation of the United Nations Truce Supervisory Organisation (UNTSO) which monitors the ceasefire between Israel and Syria up in the Golan Heights. I am not a good flyer so the two hours flight was a nightmare because of the frequent changes to our flight path (altitude and direction) due to conjestion with both civilian and military aircrafts. An unforgettable experience indeed.

Back in the residence the telephones are constantly ringing. Late into the nights he would still be consulting with his ADC and the duty officers in trying to resolve incidents or problems which the battations have been confronted with in the field. My incessant enquiries about such problems would be met with a curt but polite 'everything would be alright dear... just keep praying.' A midnight call the other night kept him awake for sometime. Later on he commented that it had been a bad day and whether I had wanted the good or bad news first? The good news was that a Nepalese position had taken a direct hit from a 120 mm mortar round fired by an Israeli backed group and that no one was killed or injured despite extensive damage to buildings and vehicles...the bad news was that prior to the incident a patrol vehicle belonging to the same contingent had tumbled down a cliff during the exchange of fire resulting in the death of two soldiers. Two other members of the patrol were very seriously injured. Minutes later I heard the helicopters taking off to retreive the dead and wounded. It could have been worse, Jioje said, before getting on the telephone to issue further instructions to the duty officer. A typical night in a land where there is never a dull moment.

In the morning he was gone and as I sat on my own and listened to the waves and gazed across our verandah to the blue Mediterranean sea I could not help but shed a tear or two because I miss our sons and long for the peace and tranquility of my home village of Maftoa and Rotuma...a paradise indeed compared to this so-called land of milk and honey. We are half a world away from our loved ones and kainaga and it is no wonder that Jioje had just reminded me that he is looking forward to fishing and gardening in Rotuma... for a change. In fact, it is a much better prospect to being the 'meat in the sandwich,' he joked.

One day he referred me to the Bible and said with very strong conviction that the answer and solution to all the problems in the Middle East are in the Good Book. I certainly agree with him.

I fully understand the enormity of his responsibilities in trying to keep the peace in a region where ethnic and religious conflicts had been endemic for centuries and to share the burden I feel obligated to spend some time with him in the mission area (despite the dangers) before returning home to our sons and family. As a soldier Jioje does not enjoy peacekeeping but he assured me that he would endeavour to serve Fiji and Rotuma to the best of his ability. In this regard may I humbly request that we all pray for the safety of all our troops wherever they are worldwide.

I look forward to sharing my experiences with everyone at home and telling them more about the Holy Land (Land of Milk and Honey) on my return. Fu'omus ma hanis ne 'os Gagaj 'Aitu.